Frequently Asked Questions
Welcome to our Frequently Asked Questions page. Here you will find answers to our most commonly asked questions.
Common Sales Related Questions
General Technical Questions
Can I request cables / hoses with different lengths than the original ones?
How can I make sure I fit and set up my new cable/hose kit properly?
Questions about Hoses
What is the difference between ‘Powerhose’ and ‘Powerhose Plus’?
What is the difference between Standard, Crossover and Race front brake lines?
Why should I fit braided hoses?
A: We’re open from 8.30AM to 5.00PM Monday to Friday . We are closed Weekends and Bank Holidays
All web orders placed online during Saturday and Sunday are processed on the following Monday.
Our workshop (for custom hose / cable drop offs) is closed from 1.00PM to 2.00PM daily for lunch.
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A: Available colours for Braided hoses are shown on the left and the different types and colours of cable conduit shown on the right :
Once you have added the product to your basket you can click the 'choose colours' link below the Product Name. Please select one of the option buttons to choose the colour of your product, and then click the 'Add Colour' button. If you make a mistake, click choose colours again to update your selection.
Notes on Cable Conduits:
- As a general rule, LB3TS conduit is used on brake and clutch cables.
- LB2 and LB1 are used on throttles, chokes and decompressor cables.
- T4LA is used on heavy duty clutch and brake cables and is available in black only.
- We don't supply Orange LB3 and LB2 as KTM motorbikes (that use orange control lines) now have hydraulic clutches.
- Speedo & Tacho Cables are available in Black ONLY, they can also be supplied with protection spring.
- Most stock items cannot be made in braided conduit as the thickness of the conduit is different to the standard. It is mainly used for custom made cables. If you would like to know if your particular item is available in a certain colour please contact us .
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A: Whether or not you will be charged VAT when placing orders online depends on the location of your shipping address:
- VAT is charged on all orders being delivered within the EU at the current UK rate. If you are a VAT registered business outside of the UK, you can still order your products online but you will need to request a VAT refund after placing your order. To request a VAT refund you will need to email the accounts department with your VAT number and your order reference number. Please see below for link to contact accounts department.
- VAT is not added to shipments outside of the EU ; customers must settle any local taxes and duties due, as it is not the responsibility of Venhill Engineering Ltd.
If you are in the Motorcycle trade and will be ordering products regularly from us then we recommend becoming an official ‘Venhill Re-seller’ to speed up the ordering process and be eligible for 'trade' pricing. Please fill out the Application form HERE and email it to our Accounts Department for more information.
A: Shipping charges are based on the carriers cost and a nominal amount to cover packing.
- Smaller value orders in the UK we use Royal Mail First Class Post ( 3-5 working days )
Shipments overseas are sent by U.P.S. (
3-5 Working Days
) for high value orders, or 'Air Mail' (
up to 21 Working days
) for smaller value.
Large quantities are shipped by our courier service. (
Usually next day for UK
3-5 working days Rest of World
Courier parcels will require a
signature on delivery
. If no one is home, they should leave a card with their contact details and take your parcel back to their local depot.
You must ring them to arrange a new delivery date
We can send parcels within the UK via Special Delivery / Next Day on request but this will be subject to an additional charge. Royal Mail next day services are before 1PM and before 9AM. Contact us for more details.
- If you are in the UK and would like Royal Mail 'Recorded delivery' or 'Next Day delivery' service, you will need to continue to the payment stage, but please call us to pay for the order with your card details instead. Please note any lead times will still apply for products that must be made.
You won't be able to see the shipping cost until you have entered your shipping address as our system uses your location to select the best price for you based on the total weight of your order.
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General Technical AnswersHoses and Cables - Custom category and click on the relevant category for either Cables or Brake and Clutch lines. We can make a custom hose/cable to your measurements or alternatively you can send us your original part to be replicated.
We are constantly updating our database with new model patterns as and when we can obtain them. If you have a new Off Road / Road / Sports Motorbike that is not listed and would like to fit Venhill cables or brake hoses, please email the Motorcycle Technical department stating your bikes’ Manufacturer, CC, Model and Year for further information on the Bespoke Service.
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Q: I want to fit a Magura Hydraulic Clutch conversion to my bike, how do I find out which one will fit?
A: If your bike is not listed under the Magura HYMEC Clutch Conversion Application Listing ; we can supply the full range of Magura spare parts to suit most motorbikes. Measuring is required on your part to work out which parts will suit best. Please refer to this document in our resources section to determine which measurement / details need to be taken. Once you have this information, please email our sales department with each measurement specified; we will then work out the best components to fit and give you a quote. Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you are unsure about how to measure up. Please remember that we do not supply a fitting service for the Clutch Conversion, so we recommend contacting your local motorcycle mechanic for correct fitting.
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A: Yes. Please read below...
- Firstly, check to see if your original cable / hose is listed on our website. This will save a lot of wasted time if we already have the technical details!
- Depending on whether or not we have the details and what type of control line you are replacing will depend on your next step so please read carefully below...
If your cable is listed on our website:
Take a note of the part number for the item you would like to order (e.g. T01-3-114). You can find the part number located at the beginning of the description of the product.
Measure how much longer / shorter you need the new cable to be compared to the original line on your motorbike. You will need to allow for full rotation of the handle bars at full lock and sufficent slack for correct routing. If you are unsure how to measure the line difference, then we recommend getting in contact with your local motorcycle workshop for assistance with measuring.
- Enter the part number into the product search and add it to your online shopping basket. Customise the colour if needed. At the checkout stage there is an additional comments box where you can enter the length change required. Place your order online and you will get priority 2 day delivery.
If your cable is not listed :
You will need to either send us your original cable to be used as a sample so we can copy the pattern; or, if you don't want to surrender your existing cables you will need to make us a Technical Drawing stating your requirements. Please follow the procedure on our
Hoses & Cables - Custom
category of our website stating on the contact form
how much longer / shorter
you need the new cable to be (if you are sending the sample).
When measuring, you will need to allow for full rotation of the handle bars at full lock and sufficient slack for correct routing. If you are unsure how to measure the line difference, then we recommend getting in contact with a qualified motorcycle mechanic for assistance with measuring.
If your hose is too long or short we recommend replacing your hose with either our ‘Powerhose’ or ‘Powerhose Plus’ brake line systems. We do not recommend modifying your original hoses in any way. You can either...
- Send us your hose that you would like us to replace along with instructions on length change requirements. Click here for more information
- Calculate the line length yourself using our Handy Guide and order the replacement hose and fittings required online!
Important note: We will not refund custom hoses / cables that we make to request that turn out to be the incorrect length! So if you are unsure with your measurements, we recommend getting in touch with your local workshop / mechanic to check your requirements.
A: Our Documentation section contains full instructions on cable and hose construction, installation and maintenance. If you are unsure about any part of your kit, or how to set up, please contact us or your local motorcycle workshop / mechanic.
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Answers about Hoses
Q: What is the difference between ‘Powerhose’ and ‘Powerhose Plus’?
- Powerhose is a DIY hose construction. We will supply braided hose cut to length and banjos with nut and olive to fit the ends of the hose. We recommend using our Mandrel ( VT62 ) tool to open up the braiding when fitting the banjos to the hose, and to tighten up the socket nut. Without this using this tool your brake hose is more likely to leak. A demonstration video for making Powerhose lines can be viewed by clicking the Powerhose link above.
is Venhill’s factory tested (TUV and DOT approved) brake line system designed to cut out the hassle and uncertainty associated with old style hoses. 'Powerhose Plus' brake lines are factory finished and are the same at both ends with 1/8
BSP swivel socket nuts which simply tighten on the chosen fittings for your machine. For more information please see our page on
Buying Powerhose Plus Brake & Clutch Lines
'Race' layouts are required by the
for twin caliper front brakes. Their regulations state that brake hoses should not be joined over the wheel, and specify: "...machines fitted with two front disc brakes, a split of the front brake lines for both front brake calipers must be made at or above the lower fork."
Our kits with 'Race' in the description have two lines from a double banjo at the master cylinder, with each line running to each caliper.
- ‘Standard’ (AKA Three Line) layouts are standard on many European bikes. One line from the master cylinder to a 'T' piece, and then a line to each caliper. Generally, we offer what was standard on the bike and the alternative of a 'Race' option.
- ‘Crossover’ layouts have a line from the master cylinder to caliper, and a second line running from this caliper crossing over the mudguard to the other caliper. Many Japanese bikes have this layout as standard.
A: Rubber brake lines – often OE fitment on motorcycles and cars – perish, harden and crack over time. This can allow the absorption of water into the brake fluid, reducing the efficiency of the braking system and putting other components at risk of corrosion.
As rubber brake lines age, they are also prone to expansion under pressure, reducing braking efficiency.
Braided steel brake lines eliminate expansion and water absorption, and will last the lifetime of the bike.
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Q: What is TUV approval and are your brake and clutch lines TUV approved?
A: Yes. Venhill Powerhose Plus lines have been formally tested and approved by TUV Rheinland. The test is in accordance with VSS106 standards. All Powerhose Plus lines are made to this standard. Venhill also has ISO 9001:2000 certification.
TÜV Product Service is an independent test body, which provides testing, certification, qualification, training and consultancy services to a range of industries. It has some of the best test facilities in Europe, and is recognised for independently testing and certifying a huge range of products, to make sure they meet the strict safety and quality standards required for sale and use worldwide. Visit them at www.tuvps.co.uk
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A: Yes. In addition to the TUV approval, our hose specifications have been sent to the United States Department of Transport and received authorization to claim that Venhill hoses meet the requirements as set forth by the DOT in accordance with the United States Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 106, "Brake Hoses".
The DOT does not certify products. Compliance with the requirements is ‘self-policed’ by the manufacturer. Manufacturers submit product specifications to the DOT and receive permission to claim that the product meets DOT requirements. Whether or not the actual product you receive meets those requirements is up to the manufacturer. Every Venhill hose is built to the same specifications that were sent to the DOT, thus every hose meets (or exceeds) DOT standards.
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Q: Do you factory test every brake and clutch line that you make?
A: Yes, every hose we make is pressure tested to 1500psi and every 30 days we also test lines at random to 10,000psi. Most motorcycle and car brakes systems operate at around 25-30psi, even under hard braking.
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A: The recommended torque settings for our fittings are as follows:
M10 and 3/8th UNF banjo bolts
5/16th" BSF (British Standard Fine) bolts
Powerhose Plus swivel joint fittings
Powerhose Plus hose end swivel nuts
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Q: Where should I use my Copper Washers?
A: Copper washers should be used on each side of banjos before tightening the banjo bolts. There is no need to use copper washers with adaptors unless the hole is not sufficient to house the entire thread of the bolt. If you are in any doubt as to how to correctly fit and bleed your brake lines, we recommend contacting your local motorcycle workshop for fitting.
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Q: Is Stainless Steel preferable to Chrome plated Carbon steel?
A: Our Stainless steel banjo bolts are 303 grade. They will fade/darken over a long time. It is a more expensive material than carbon steel chrome, but it is more preferable as it has a higher corrosive resistance. Chrome plated carbon steel requires cleaning and maintenance to keep it looking shiny and new. If left over a long time it will pit with rust spots and eventually the chrome plating will be oxidized and rust will start to erode the surface. The rate of this process will be increased if the bike is left in a salty / corrosive environment such as close to the sea, or generally left outside uncovered. Keeping the bike covered, in a garage or dry and clean will prevent this from happening.
Q: My Hose is Leaking, Is it Faulty?
- Check you have torqued up the swivel nuts to 12NM (just over hand tight). We sell a torque spanner set if needed.
- Note: Off road lines are usually tight one end (master cylinder) and left loose at the other end for you to align the hose and tighten.
- Road kits must be assembled completely with the fittings first loosely, then bolted up and tightened to their torque settings.
- Check you have tightened up all the banjo bolts to their recommended torque setting and used a new copper washer each side of the banjo fitting?
- Adapter fittings might require a copper washer between the mating face to get a seal. Note if the Venhill supplied adapter is shorter than the original; then the seal will be created on the shoulder of the adapter, and not the bottom of the thread inside the hole.
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Answers about CablesA: Our range of "Featherlight" (F/L) cables use (PTFE) Teflon liners inside the conduit for reduced friction and heat resistance. The additional benefit of Teflon means that there is no need to lubricate the cable. Stainless steel inner wire prevents the cable from rusting for the life of the bike. Altogether this means a high quality product at a fraction of the price of an original fitment part.
Q: What are ‘Featherlight’ (F/L) cables?
A: No. All our control cables are Teflon lined, and do not need any form of lubrication. Copper grease can be used on cable nipples if required.
New Featherlight cables do not need lubrication. The stainless wire runs smoothly in the Teflon liner. Lubrication will not improve performance or feel. By lubricating you run the risk of clogging the cable and allowing dirt to stick to the surfaces.
Beyond this there are two issues:
- How do you clean it? This is particularly relevant for dirt bikes. We recommend using WD 40 or a very light oil such as 3 in 1. This effectively washes away dirt from the cable, without clogging it.
Many customers insist on lubricating cables, we would say you don’t have to but if you must, use a very light oil such as 3 in 1.
A: This is a special process applied to the end of an inner cable wire that allows solder to penetrate the weave of the cable. This makes the bond with the nipple much stronger. We sell a special ‘Bird Caging’ tool VT13 that makes light work of this process for DIY cable makers. Please see the video next to this product for a demonstration.
A: If you are thinking of purchasing a Universal Cable Kit, you will be supplied with Galvanised Steel Inner wire. You can use readily available electrical or plumbers solder for this task but look for one with a higher tin content. The higher the tin content the stronger the solder will be. If the solder wire does not already contain flux, you should purchase this separately. If you have never soldered before we recommend getting assistance from someone with more experience. To make your bond with your nipples much stronger when soldering, we recommend ‘Bird caging’ the end of the wire to splay the wire strands. You can see a demonstration video of our special ‘ Bird Caging Tool ’ along with our recommended method of soldering here.
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Q: What type of Solder and Flux do you recommend to complete my cable kits?
A: If you have purchased one of our cable kits then you will have been supplied Galvanised Steel inner wire. For galvanised steel you can use common electrical or plumbers solder which also has the flux combined. The higher the tin content of the solder the stronger it will be.
We recommend 'Black-band' or 'Frysol' soldering flux.
If you have purchased stainless steel inner wire (available separately) you will need special flux. For stainless steel wire we use ‘A8 Stainless Steel Flux’ and ‘Tinman Grade C (Lead based) solder’
Here at Venhill we use a flux reservoir and temperature controlled solder pots. We first dip the ‘bird caged’ end of wire into the flux with the nipple resting on top; only enough to cover the top of the nipple. Then submerge the wire and nipple into the molten solder (600F / 360C) again just enough to cover the top of the nipple. This ensures complete coverage of the nipple and wire to form the strongest bond possible without reducing flexibility of the wire.
The last stage is to grease the nipple and end of wire with light 3 in 1 oil.
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